Chui Lee Luk

Part of our series on lawyers who've escaped the law ... Chui Lee Luk, former tax lawyer is one of the country's most interesting and original chefs  ... The perfectionist from Claude's in Paddington now at her new creation Chow Bar & Eating House ... The lawyer turned chef took time out from the kitchen to visit Justinian's couch 

Chui Lee Luk at Chow Bar & Eating House

It's been a long journey for Chui Lee Luk. 

The law couldn't hold her after a stint at the state taxes department of KPMG.

She fled to Paramount, the Christine Manfield restaurant in Potts Point. Then to Kylie Kwong at Wockpool, before heading to the Blue Mountains to learn more about French cooking with Dany Chouet at Cleopatra. 

In 2000 Lee Luk joined Tim Pak Poy at the wonderful fine dining bijou, Claude's in Sydney's Paddington. 

Four years later she owned and ran the restaurant. 

After nine years rattling the pans she closed Claude's and, for now, said goodbye to fine dining. 

Her new venture is a modern Chinese eatery with western flavours, Chow Bar & Eating House in Surry Hills. 

Soon after arriving in Australia from Malaysia, Chui won a drawing competition. The prize was a copy of Waverley Root's Food of France. 

Her intrigue with French cooking had begun. 

Now she has produced her own book of food, recipes and reminiscences: Green Pickled Peaches - with memories of the defining moments of her childhood, the mixture of Malay, British and Chinese cultures, and tales from the kitchens of her aunt and grandmother. 

Enough of this. Let's got out of the kitchen and onto the couch ... 

Describe yourself in three words.

Resilient, resourceful, pedantic.

What are you currently reading? 

The current Fool magazine and J.M. Coetzee's "Diary of a Bad Year".  

What's your favourite film?

I relate to the self-deprecating and deprecating humour of Steve Coogan's roles and writing. When I'm not cringing too much while watching it, the film I most remember is "Tristram Shandy".

Who has been the most influential person in your life? 

The people who are teaching me stress management skills like my yoga teacher, my remedial massage therapist, my acupuncturist.

What is your favourite piece of music?

I'm listening a lot to The Cure's "A Forest". 

What is in your refrigerator? 

Not much as I'm living at the restaurant at the moment and love going out to get hot chips after work or hanging out in Thai town at one of the late opening eateries. 

What is your favourite restaurant in the world?

I can't really say as it changes all the time and depends on the company, environment and not simply the food and the wine. The latest memorable dining experience was at Moon Park in Redfern, opened by my old chef at Claude's. Like a proud mother, I'm so happy to see him blossoming at his own place.

What do you recommend as a hangover cure?

Lots of coffee, cold pressed juice, a session of yoga, followed by a Bloody Mary and more liquids.

What is your greatest weakness? 

I recognise this as one of those tricky job interview questions at law firms. It's probably my frankness and honesty, which can lead me to trouble when I blurt things out inadvertently.

Why did you leave the law for the kitchen?  

I see the major role of a lawyer as an agent for someone else's transaction. Early on, I realised that I wanted to be the actual decision maker and so needed to get out of the negotiator or advisory role. I also wanted to be involved in a process where something concrete is created at the end, and law was too abstract; cooking and being a chef satisfied that need for me. It was important for me to have a creative outlet. I was fortunate to find professional cooking, which combines creativity, scientific rigor (at times), systematic organisation, and provides an audience for the work.

Why did you want to be a lawyer in the first place? 

Short answer is that I got the marks. However, I did start with altruistic aims of changing the world and the environment with my efforts, but found during studies that law was basically about the transfer of some form of property from one party to another. 

Does any part of you miss being a lawyer? 

Strangely enough, when the odd legal document comes my way, I am thrilled initially to be able to use my legal skills to review it. This soon fades and I pass the paper to my lawyer. 

What is the most important requirement to be a good chef?   

All the requirements for a person to be successful in any field: ability to roll with the punches, tenacity, organisation, recognising an opportunity and running with it, ability to think laterally, and being good with your hands.

What is your favourite meal?

Steak frites. 

What's your most glamorous feature?

My mouth, when I'm able to coax it into a genuine smile. 

If you were a foodstuff, what would you be?

Garlic: versatile, powerful in some ways, sometimes offensive, adaptable sometimes, uncompromising, persistent. 

What human quality do you most distrust?

Unwarranted gregariousness and intrusive friendliness that betrays a need to be liked. 

Whom or what do you consider overrated?

Do I have to answer this?

What would you prepare for a lawyers' picnic? 

A selection of artisanal wines, such as from William Downie (A Thousand Candles), convenient finger food.

What comes into your mind when you shut your eyes and think of the word "law"? 

When I'm in a good frame of mind, I'm reminded of the highly intelligent and articulate people that I've known as lawyers. That's what I mostly remember.